Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester Powder

Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester (CAS: 196604-48-5), also known by its commercial trade name Calmosensine (developed by Sederma/Croda), is a synthetic biomimetic lipopeptide with the sequence N-Acetyl-Tyrosyl-Arginyl-Hexadecyl Ester. It is composed of a dipeptide (arginine and tyrosine) combined with acetic acid and cetyl alcohol – a structural design that enhances lipophilicity and skin penetration.

Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester is a bio-identical peptide that mimics a skin-natural peptide involved in maintaining skin elasticity. What makes this ingredient truly unique is its dual mechanism of action: it functions both as a neuromodulator (reducing the micro-contractions that cause expression lines) and as a soothing agent (calming neurogenic inflammation and reducing skin sensitivity). This combination makes it one of the few peptide actives that simultaneously addresses visible signs of aging and skin discomfort – a rare and valuable profile in cosmetic formulation.

The peptide works through a sophisticated three-pronged mechanism:

1. Neuromodulation – Inhibits the release of Substance P and CGRP (neuropeptides involved in neurogenic inflammation) while stimulating met-enkephalin release for a calming, analgesic effect
2. Anti-Inflammatory Action – Downregulates pro-inflammatory cytokines IL-1, IL-6, and TNF-α
3. Extracellular Matrix Stimulation – Activates fibroblasts to significantly increase elastin, tropoelastin, and type I collagen synthesis; upregulates barrier genes (AQP3, Filaggrin, Caspase 14)

Our Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester Powder is manufactured through advanced Solid-Phase Peptide Synthesis (SPPS) with N-terminal acetylation and C-terminal esterification, followed by rigorous HPLC purification. The result is a consistently pure (≥95%–98%), stable, and highly bioactive powder that meets the stringent quality requirements of prestige skincare brands worldwide.

Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester is a scientifically validated ingredient with a unique dual mechanism – it calms sensitive skin while reducing expression lines. Here are the key benefits supported by research:

1. Soothes Sensitive, Irritated, and Stressed Skin

• Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester is clinically proven to reduce capsaicin-induced stinging and burning sensations in volunteers with sensitive skin.
• It inhibits the release of Substance P and CGRP – neuropeptides that trigger neurogenic inflammation and pain signals.
• At the same time, it stimulates the release of met-enkephalin, an endogenous opioid peptide with calming and analgesic properties.
• This unique "painkiller-like" mechanism reduces the perception of stressed, sensitive, irritated, dry, or itchy skin.

2. Reduces Expression Lines – A "Botox-Like" Effect Without Injection

• By modulating neurosensory responses, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester relieves skin tension that contributes to the formation of expression lines.
• It acts as a messenger of tranquility and muscle relaxation, helping to prevent the onset of wrinkles and expression lines.
• This makes it an ideal ingredient for formulations targeting forehead wrinkles, crow's feet, and perioral lines.

3. Stimulates Elastin & Collagen for Firmer, More Resilient Skin

• In vitro studies demonstrate a >94% increase in elastin/tropoelastin synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
• Elastin fiber production increases by up to 90% compared to control.
• The peptide also promotes type I collagen gene expression (COL1A1) and fibrillin-1 gene expression – key components of the skin's extracellular matrix.
• The result is improved skin firmness, elasticity, and laxity.

4. Protects Against Glycation – Prevents Sugar-Related Skin Aging

• Topical application of this peptide protects fibroblasts from the visible impact of glycation – a process where destructive sugar molecules progressively weaken skin's supportive elements.
• This helps maintain collagen and elastin integrity, preventing premature aging.

5. Strengthens the Skin Barrier

Research indicates that Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester upregulates the expression of genes crucial for a healthy skin barrier:

• Aquaporin 3 (AQP3) – regulates water transport and skin hydration
• Filaggrin (FLG) – essential for skin barrier formation and moisture retention
• Caspase 14 – involved in skin barrier maturation

6. Reduces Inflammation

• The peptide downregulates the expression of pro-inflammatory cytokines including Interleukin-1 (IL-1), Interleukin-6 (IL-6), and Tumor Necrosis Factor-alpha (TNF-α).
• This helps mitigate inflammatory responses within the skin, reducing redness and irritation.

7. Versatile for Sensitive & Reactive Skin

1. Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester is an excellent choice for sensitive skin care products, sunscreens, post-sun care products, and other similar applications.
2. Its soothing effect offsets stinging and burning sensations that can be caused by other bio-active ingredients – making it a perfect pairing partner for potentially sensitizing actives like retinol and vitamin C.